Rijeka has the perfect geography: the sea right in front of you, and the fish market – the “belly of the city” – just a few steps from Mornar. If you’re local, you probably have your favorite stall and your trusted seller. If you’re visiting, here’s the good news: freshness can be learned with a few simple tricks. Start with the eyes. Are they clear, slightly bulging, without a milky film? That means the fish was caught recently. Cloudy, sunken, or dull eyes mean time has passed.

Next checkpoint: the gills. Don’t be afraid to touch them – bright red and moist means fresh; brownish or sticky means skip it. Then comes the smell. The sea smells clean; it doesn’t “hit” you. A heavy, stale odor is a good reason to change your plan. For white fish, press the fillet gently with your fingertip – if the flesh bounces back, it’s fresh. Blue fish (like sardines or mackerel) should have shiny skin and firm texture.

Seasonality is your ally. In Kvarner, summer brings plenty of blue fish, while the in-between months are perfect for soups and stews. It’s no shame to ask the vendor what’s “best today” – it’s the shortest route to a great meal. If you’re cooking the same day, ask for minimal cleaning and keep the fish on ice. At home, store it in the coldest part of the fridge and cook as soon as possible.

Seasonality is your ally. In Kvarner, summer brings plenty of blue fish, while the in-between months are perfect for soups and stews. It’s no shame to ask the vendor what’s “best today” – it’s the shortest route to a great meal. If you’re cooking the same day, ask for minimal cleaning and keep the fish on ice. At home, store it in the coldest part of the fridge and cook as soon as possible.

For quick cooking, two rules apply: hot and short. Fish loves high heat and calm in the pan. Add salt and lemon at the end so the flesh keeps its juices. And if you don’t feel like cooking, Rijeka has a shortcut: sit down at Riva Boduli and order what arrived from the fish market that very morning – the locals know why. (Mornar, at Riva Boduli 5b, adjusts its daily menu to the day’s catch.)