The word buzara raises eyebrows across Istria, Dalmatia, and Kvarner. Some say the “real” one is white, others swear by the red. The truth is simpler: a good buzara is the one that keeps the shellfish juicy and lets the bread soak up the sauce. In Rijeka, it naturally starts with mussels. Choose heavy, tightly closed ones; clean the beard and rinse with cold water.

For a white buzara, you’ll need: 1 kg mussels, 3–4 garlic cloves, olive oil, parsley, 150 ml white wine, a spoon of water, and a pinch of pepper. Heat the oil over medium heat, briefly scent it with garlic, and add the mussels right away. Shake the pan, pour in the wine, and cover so the steam opens them. Don’t overcook: as soon as most open, they’re ready. Only then add salt (careful, the mussels are salty themselves) and sprinkle with parsley. The sauce should stay clear, smelling of the sea and wine.

Red buzara likes a spoonful of crushed or strained tomatoes, sometimes even a touch of concentrate for color. Don’t overdo it – the color is secondary, flavor is everything. For a richer taste, toss in a few shrimp – their heads release sweetness into the sauce. Dipping bread isn’t just allowed; it’s required.

Mistakes to avoid? Chopping garlic into paste (it burns and turns bitter), cooking too long (shells toughen), or adding too much salt (the sea’s already in there). The secret of buzara is rhythm: hot, fast, and straight to the table. That’s exactly how it’s served at Mornar – to capture the scent of the Adriatic without complications. For a simpler home version, start with half the ingredients and a smaller pan – easier to control. (Or take a seat on the terrace, watch how the pros do it, and later repeat not just the recipe, but the gesture.)