Rijeka is best explored on foot. Start from Korzo, walk past old buildings with tall ground floors and shop windows that carry traces of different eras, and in about ten minutes you’ll reach the market. That’s where the city gathers in the morning: vegetables from the hinterland, cheese, honey, and – most importantly – the fish market. Stop by the stalls that smell of the sea; watch how locals make their lunch decisions in just a few sentences. It’s a small lesson in trust and routine.

From the fish market to Riva Boduli it’s only a few steps. There, the city’s “kitchen” spills into the street: boats, cars, people carrying bags, and the inevitable lunch in one of the bistros. Mornar is the piece that connects it all – you can hear the razor scraping fish skin on the grill, the waiter listing the morning’s catch, and three languages spoken at the next table. On the terrace, you see and taste the city; inside, under the arches, it smells warmer.

If you have an hour and a half, that’s enough for a real marenda: soup, buzara or a plate of pljukanci, a glass of wine, and an espresso to finish. If you have more time, order a fish platter and share it. The rhythm serves a living gastronomy: don’t expect “fine dining”; expect dishes that ask for bread and aren’t afraid of flavor. If it’s crowded, take it as part of the experience – Rijeka lives beyond the tourist season, and you can feel it.

For visitors exploring the city, it’s a good idea to combine visits to modern museums and old industrial halls with a food break. Rijeka isn’t showy; it gives you what it is, without polish. In that honesty, the food truly shines: sardines, mussels, soups, grilled fish. And when you’re done, stay a few more minutes, watch the street, note what you’ll try tomorrow from the market. You might find yourself building a small “Kvarner calendar” in your head – what’s coming, when it arrives, and where to eat it.